Записки Печорской экспедиции. Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма

Усть-Цильму я снимать не стал.
Не из лени или вредности — времени не было. Те 3-4 часа света, что в нашем распоряжении, хочется потратить на что-то более интересное, чем легкодоступная Усть-Цильма. Тем более, в этот день нам проводником вызвался Владимир, человек, с которым мы познакомились несколькими днями раньше на Ираельском серпантине, ратующий за культуру и историю родного края, а с патриотами, в хорошем смысле этого слова, всегда приятно иметь дело.

Путь лежал в село Замежная, где нас ждали в гости. Правда, на календаре — предпоследний день поста, и нам сразу было четко сказано, что никаких съемок, песнопений и фольклерных выступлений быть не может. Несмотря ни на что. Старообрядцы. У них все строго. Потому рассказ будет о поездке.

В Усть-Цильме тронуло здание ГИБДД, такое милое, деревянное.

Путешествия по району связаны с пересечением множества рек по ледовым переправам. Река Пижма.

А это Печора — багров хватит на всех!

Местные жители традиционно стирают в реке. На улице около -30С, и это не мешает. Кстати, и питьевую воду на Пижме берут не из колодцев, а с реки, ведь она намного вкуснее.

Вот такие самоделки встречаются в деревнях. Кто был "родителем" — одному Богу известно!

Нет уж, лучше лошадки и все, что с ними связано, оно как-то красивее! Кстати, в санях едет охотник, везет подстреляных зайцев-беляков.

Посмотрите, какие красавцы! И заводятся в любой мороз!

Молельный дом в Замежной. Церквей в общепринятом смысле этого слова у старообрядцев нет.

А с верой тут все серьезно. Мы лишь слегка прикоснулись к местной истории и культуре, и теперь очень хочется вернуться сюда летом, чтобы окунуться с головой в исследование и созерцание. Посмотрите на эти фото: разве расскажешь о ТАКОМ в двух словах, в блоге? Нет, это задел для целого проекта!

Вернувшись на ночь в Усть-Цильму опять заселились в гостевую комнату спорткомплекса. Завтра пойдем на север по Печоре. Курс — на Нарьян-Мар.

Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

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