Записки Печорской экспедиции. Новый Год Ешкин Кот

Опубликовано mochalov в Сб, 02/01/2010 - 03:43

Несмотря на описанное ранее ДТП, мы все равно отправились на север. Экипаж перевернутого Land Rover Defender переместился вместе со своим шмурдяком в мой Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, полученный на тест в представительстве Chrysler накануне праздников. Теперь нас в нем едет трое, с нами — полный комплект палаток, спальников, пенок, нарядов, тросов, инструментов, лопат и мангалов. Второй экипаж, выехавший из Тулы на Ford Ranger, должен догнать нас ближе к Ухте.

Наша основная цель — достигнуть таких очагов северной цивилизации как Ижма, Усть-Цильма и Печора. Если повезет, доберемся и до города Печора, а если сумасшедшая удача обрушится на наши головы, то и до Воркуты уж подать рукой... Но не станем загадывать, а поведаем о том, как проходит наш Вояж.

Успешно миновали злополучное село Воровино, где в кювете 7 часов лежал наш Defender, пересекли Кострому, по кюветам постоянно встречались следы улетов, разок дергали из сугроба пытавшийся повторить наш подвиг Mitsubishi L200 с ростовскими номерами. О серьезности гололеда можно судить и по фотографии с фурой — она почти цела, но вытащить ее пока не кончится гололед никто не в силах — любой тягач попросту шлифует шинами лед.

Не так давно на сайте Малые Острова я нашел упоминание, что появилась теоретическая возможность летом и в сухую погоду проехать на легковой машине из Солигалича в Тотьму. О такой возможности давно мечтали многие путешественники, ведь эта смычка между Костромской и Вологодской областями совершенно логична и, мало того, указана на картах. Я даже предпринимал попытку в 2004 году прорваться там на Lexus GX470. Естественно, у меня, как и у всех остальных, ничегошеньки не вышло. А пару лет назад один знакомый преодолел это расстояние на... ГАЗ 66, и рассказывал об этом приключении весьма красочно, используя тяжеловесные эпитеты. А тут такая новость, чуть ли не на "Жигулях" народ ездит!

И действительно, хотя и пришлось чуток поплутать по заснеженным полям и вырубкам на участке между Юрино до Игошево, но мы сделали это! К тому же, нам пришлось еще и пересекать реку Сухону по льду от села Красное к селу Черепаниха. Естественно, ни о какой ледовой переправе речи не было, местные ездят, как Бог на душу положит, в полуобморочном состоянии, и они нас заверили, что Новый Год мы встретим не на дне... Пришлось поверить. Ни о каких фото речи нет, было уже темно, и мы хотели успеть к полуночи прибыть хоть куда-то, где есть телек с Медведевым.

В Сольвычегодск мы уже очевидно опаздывали, и решили окунуться в новогоднюю вакханалию в Великом Устюге. В новогоднюю ночь рассчитывать на гостиницу в непосредственной близости от резиденции Деда Мороза — скорее авантюра, но нам и тут повезло. Как-будто специально для нас осталось два номера в Гостином Дворе. И это, безусловно, прекрасно… А праздник-то где??? Где народные гуляния, тройки с бубенцами и медведи с цыганами на улицах??? Спрашиваем у всех подряд, мол, граждане, где праздник-то? А в Устюге говорят: все сидят по кабакам, там и праздник, только все рестораны закрыты на спецобслуживание. Приехали к Дедушке Морозу, нечего сказать! Встретили 2010 в номере, под короткую речь отфотошопленного президента и робкий хлопок залетной петарды. В час ночи уже в три гортани храпели на всю ивановскую. А на утро, когда мы отыскали-таки вотчину Деда Мороза, оказалось, что вчера у нас был шанс попасть на шоу-программу стоимостью 800 целковых, но кто же об этом знал, если даже администраторы в гостиницах оказались несведущи в вопросах культмассовых мероприятий?

Прогуляться же днем по Вотчине можно лишь заплатив за множество навязанных услуг ни много ни мало 510 рублей с человека, а просто пройти "посмотреть" — никак нельзя, только в комплексе с экскурсией, катаниями и песнопениями. В общем, второй раз в Устюге — и второй раз мимо кассы, потратить 1530 рублей за троих мы не решились. Вспоминается финский Рованиеми, где все как у людей, и ощущение праздника потрясающее. А у нас — РАЗВОДКА. Раз водка, два водка...

Зато в остальном — Устюг очень прикольный городок. Но так как ощущения Нового Года тут кот наплакал, а церкви и домишки можно поснимать и летом, когда пальцы не отмерзают, фотосессия была отложена до лучших времен во всех смыслах этой фразы. А вот магазин «Перекресток» каким-то чудом в кадр попал:

В Котласе привлек внимание… БТР, припаркованный среди «Мочквичей» и «Жигулей» во дворе жилого дома. До того он органично вписан в ландшафт, что не сразу и приметишь…

Переправившись через Вычегду по понтонной переправе в Коряжме, в одном из сел я не смог проследовать мимо занесенного пургой телефона-автомата. Такой щедрый подарок рассыпало наше правительство всем селам, где прописан хотя бы один человек… Тропы к средству связи с внешним миром, естественно, нет, что косвенно подчеркивает, насколько это необходимый аппарат во времена, когда мобильная связь уже вошла в каждый дом.

К ночи мы прибыли в Вогваздино.

Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

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