Записки Печорской экспедиции. Ухта – Ижма

Ухта. Ранний выезд традиционно не удался, отчалили от гостиницы лишь в начале десятого утра. Мороз держится стабильно на уровне около -20º. Впереди последний перегон до заветного «медвежьего угла», сегодня мы должны достигнуть села Ижма.

Выезжаем по дороге на Вуктыл, она ровна и хороша, но радуемся недолго. Не доезжая Верхнего Одеса уходим на грунтовую лесную дорогу и плетемся на скорости 15-30 км/ч по удивительно изуродованному «направлению». И ведь мы едем здесь зимой, а что здесь творится летом… Приходилось видеть фотографии с этого злосчастного участка — жесть! Сейчас же народ умудряется прорываться даже на легковушках, правда, некоторые из них, очевидно, не совсем адекватны. Так, нам попался на пути потрепанный жизнью и хозяином «Жигуленок» с оторванной шаровой опорой.

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Не было лишь нормального инструмента, теплой одежды, того, что можно постелить на землю во время ремонта, и… бензина! А чудо-отвертка с ручкой из березового полена как вам, нравится? С таким "снаряжением" пускаться в путешествие по 120-километровому "зимнику" в 22 градуса мороза — очередная русская рулетка.

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При разъезде со встречной машиной Сергея на Ford Ranger затянуло в придорожный сугроб — пришлось разматывать лебедку.

И этот конфуз обернулся большой удачей. Сперва около нас остановился дядечка, направляющийся в село Ласта, близ Ижмы; оказывается, у него там база отдыха. А следом за ним около нас тормознул Mitsubishi L200, оттуда радостно вышел высокий, статный, бородатый мужчина, который, поняв, что мы путешественники, принялся со всеми знакомиться и рассказывать множество любопытных историй и фактов из истории края. Оказалось, он музыкант, едет в Усть-Цильму, где у его коллектива 8 января концерт… Как, оказывается, полезно застревать! Договорились встретиться с ним через день-два в Усть-Цильме.

В Ижму въехали довольно рано, часов в шесть вечера, и уж было приготовились откупоривать консервы — ведь во время моего последнего посещения этого села несколько лет назад общепитом здесь и не пахло. Однако оказалось, что открылась еще одна гостиница, где есть свое кафе! Ни секунды не раздумывая, пустили корни в гостевом доме «Пелидз» (что в переводе означает Рябина) и протестировали предлагаемый сервис. Не могу сказать, что супер, но самое главное — отношение. С этим вопросом на Ижме все в порядке: народ удивительно светлый, открытый, общительный, готовый помочь советом, знакомствами, да чем угодно. Если ты гость — достаточно обрисовать проблему тому же администратору в гостинице, и, будьте уверены, без всяких отговорок будут найдены ответы на все поставленные вопросы, найдены искомые люди и принесено то, не знаю что. Заповедный край! А солнца так и нет…

Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

Молодцы, ребята!

Вот такой мы ВОЛОКисты народ!

ВОЛОК рулит, и нигде не пропадет! (Народный поэт)

Отрежьте женщине крылья,

И она пересядет на метлу!

А где продолжение, Командор? Ждем с нетерпением!

Отрежьте женщине крылья,

И она пересядет на метлу!

Ранний выезд из Ухты не удался,но в Ижму вы попали к 6 вечера... Это хорошо. А что было дальше? 

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