Записки Печорской экспедиции. Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

Опубликовано mochalov в Ср, 13/01/2010 - 17:20

Последний день активной части экспедиции начался посреди поля за околицей Харьяги. Спали в палатке, на улице -24С. Обо всех аспектах подобных ночлегов расскажу чуть позже, это достойно отдельного материала. Скажу лишь, что секрет кроется в первую очередь в хорошем спальнике и нескольких слоях обычных туристических пенок. А после расскажу о попытках отопить палатки газовыми обогревателями.

Ночью к нашей палатке подъехали местные, потребовали документы — заподозрили нас в терроризме. Боятся провокаций с нефтехранилищем... Паранойя и сюда дошла.

Харьяга — поселок, основанный раскулаченным крестьянами, высланными при Сталине на север. Их просто привезли сюда на барже, высадили и забыли... Поселок административно относился к Воркуте. Затем здесь был колхоз. Сейчас нет ничего. Сплошное натуральное хозяйство, охота-рыбалка-собирательство. Электичество свое — круглосуточно молотит дизельная электростанция. А еще, из Харьяги есть "направление", выводящее к Баренцову морю, в Индигу. Мы проверили — просека в лес уходит, но следов нет. Вся информация со слов местных.

Обратите внимание как дом "утеплен" снегом.

В памятной стелле замурована капсула потомкам. Надо приехать в день вскрытия, очень любопытно!

Ждать осталось чуть-чуть:

Под снегом зимуют "Газушки" и ГТСы, без которых летом по суше было бы не проехать вовсе. Вот бы на таком агрегате на Индигу!

Очередная ледовая переправа.

Обратный путь — это всегда немного грустно. До Москвы — больше двух тысяч километров, но несмотря на мороз и унылую природу, возвращаться совершенно не хочется.

Ненадолго выглянуло тусклое солнце...

В Новом Бору пришлось дозаправляться. Купил у местных 20 литров бензина, припасенного для бензопилы и... узнал, что кругом немцы! Оказывается, весь поселок — выселенные в те же 30-е годы немцы Поволжья.

На Полярном Круге посреди дороги "расселся" Dodge Caliber c питерскими номерами. Одолевать крутые подъемы без полного привода проблематично, а их провожатый на UAZ Patriot... попросту забыл о подшефной легковушке, уехал восвояси. На дворе Рождество, трафик по зимнику нулевой, через 4,5 часа ожиданий появились мы. Они даже дров для костра уже натаскали, ведь их ждала веселенькая ночь.

А следом за нами подъехала "Нива". В такой теплой компании мы и сопровождали Dodge от Полярного Круга до речки Чукча. Это и был финальный аккорд нашей новогодней экспедиции.

Про обратный путь писать не стану. Шли по маршруту Ижма – Ухта – Сыктывкар – Широкий Прилук – Великий Устюг – Вологда – Москва, спали в приличных гостиницах, устраивали праздник живота, вспоминали эпизоды путешествия и строили планы на будущее... И многое из того, что мы настроили, вы вскоре непременно увидите!

Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

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Очень интересно и познавательно, только есть один нюанс Харьяга где вы побывали и Харьяга на которую возможно попасть из Усинска это две разные вещи, официально он кстати называется пос. Харьягинский, хотя в просторечии у нас все говорят Харьяга подразумевая именно вахтовый посёлок.

Харьяга (усинская) это вахтовый посёлок нефтянников там находится штук 20 жилых комплексов и куча всяких промышленных объектов и всё это сильно опутано трубопроводами различного диаметра.

Появился он где-то в начале 80-х годов прошлого века кажется, название своё получил от протекающей рядом речки Харьяжка (на коми звучит как Харьяха), самое прикольное что речки это тоже разные :-)

Кстати если бы вы смогли пробится оттуда на Шапкино, то оттуда есть зимник выходящий на дорогу Усинск - Харьяга, а с Харьяги зимник идет на Нарьян-Мар.

Опубликовано mochalov в Пнд, 18/01/2010 - 03:14.

День добрый! Спасибо за уточнения! Про поселки-двойники я знаю, а вот о зимнике от Шапкино слышу впервые. А откуда нужно было туда пробиваться? Каких либо развилок и отвороток я не видел на нашем пути...

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