Записки Печорской экспедиции. Вогваздино – Ухта
Вогваздино. Ночью было -23ºС, это совсем немного, но после Москвы — уже настоящая зима. Придорожная деревянная гостиница и столовая в одном флаконе топится дровами, ни угля, ни газа здесь нет. Работы в округе нет вообще, леспромхоз давно не функционирует, народ живет грибами, ягодой и… придорожной торговлей. Много ли можно наторговать при таком низком трафике — одному Богу известно. В то же время, попадаются и небедные персонажи. Еще за ужином в столовую зашел в дугу пьяный мужик, взял супа и водки и поведал нам, что только что перевернулся на Volga Siber. Гололед, конечно, сильный, но основная проблема — в промиллях. ГАИ в этих краях — вид заповедный, и народец расслаблен, ездит «на бровях». И даже запрет на продажу крепкого алкоголя после 23:00 мало что решает, трезвого мужчину в Вогваздино не встретить.
Сегодня сложилась скорее паломническая программа: близ Вогваздино расположен Михаило-Архангельский Усть-Вымский монастырь, основанный Стефаном Пермским в 1384 году. С этого времени являлся кафедральным монастырем Пермских епископов. На первый взгляд, особой красоты в облике монастыря нет, суровые строения, как старые, так и новостройные. Однако отсутствие архитектурных изысков компенсирует выразительный ландшафт и мосты меж берегами оврагов.
Наша конечная цель сегодня — город Ухта. Расстояние не великое, потому едем неспеша, осматривая окрестности. От с. Усть-Вымь идет прямая дорога на Серегово, она совершенно пустынна, и причиной тому — переправа через реку Вымь. В этом году зима морозная и ледовая переправа уже открыта. На фото — набор "помоги себе сам":
Через Серегово, на мой взгляд, стоит ехать в первую очередь ради поклонного креста — в южной части Коми их осталось немного. Этот же крест поставлен на месте битвы сереговцев с пришельцами из Соловецкого монастыря в 1684 году. Те пытались захватить сереговские соляные промыслы, в те годы Соловецкий монастырь был крупнейшим производителем соли в России. Естественно, за столетия крест не раз сгнивал. Нынешний крест, по данным краеведа Александра Панюкова, был установлен в 1884 году.
На самом деле, на сегодняшний день сохранился еще один крест, но о нем я узнал уже в Ухте, когда стал копать информацию, мы же его не видели. Он стоит в центре села и известен с 1799 года. Тогда в Серегово был страшный пожар, и один мужчина встал около этого креста и сказал: «Если крест сгорит — и я вместе с ним сгорю». Сгорело почти все село, а крест остался. А вообще раньше в Серегово крестов было пять. Опять же, по данным газеты «Трибуна», в Серегово есть Печь Гофмана, труба и карьер Сереговского известкового завода (видели, но не знали что это), рассолоподъемные скважины и башни (не видели). Зато видели в Ембе другую историческую достопримечательность, законсервированную до лучших времен дешевую АЗС:
Неподалеку находится и Кылтовский Крестовоздвиженский монастырь — первая женская обитель в Коми крае, построенная в конце XIX в. для просвещения зырянок и укрепления позиций официального православия, в противовес старообрядчеству и отголоскам язычества, распространенных у зырян. Согласно рассказам монахинь монастыря, раньше здесь жил в отшельничестве богомольный православный христианин. Он поставил вблизи от своей избушки большой деревянный крест. После его смерти этот крест, излучавший свет, нашли заблудившиеся путники. С тех пор место на берегу речки Кылтовки получило название «Крестовый стан», а чудесный крест до сих пор хранится в Кылтовском монастыре и, по мнению монахинь, обладает даром исцеления. Источник
Во втором часу дня начались… сумерки. Съемочное время прошло, и мы двинулись в Ухту. Дорога совершенно безынтересная, кругом мрачная тайга и полное отсутствие населенных пунктов. Опять же гололед, идет небольшой снег, за машинами поднимается снежное облако. Обогнать впереди идущий транспорт непросто — ничего не видно. Да и при разъезде со встречными машинами кроется большой риск — в снежно-пылевой мгле может «затеряться» пытающийся обогнать автомобиль, и встреча при такой видимости, мягко скажем, неприятна.
Помнится, в Ухте раньше было сложно найти гостиницу с разумным соотношением цена/качество. Город командировочных нефтяников и газовщиков был далек от демократизма, и самым бюджетным вариантом была гостиница в аэропорту. Однако времена меняются, на въезде в город висит рекламный щит отеля «Желанный Гость»; мы позвонили и были приятно удивлены уровнем цен — с учетом новогодней скидки (командировочных-то нет!) с человека просят 550 рублей с завтраком. Правда, найти ее не просто, здание затеряно в промзонах, по соседству виднеется какая-то зона с вышками… Этот факт нас и смутил, мы запросили помощь в навигации, и нас встретил водитель на фирменном микроавтобусе. Вот это индивидуальный подход к клиенту!
К полуночи нас догнал второй экипаж на Ford Ranger. Мы воссоединились и завтра рвем когти в район Ижмы. До этого момента был «доезд», а теперь начинается самое интересное! И, надеюсь, будет и на нашей улице солнышко, замучали сине-серо-зеленые фотографии...
Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва
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