Записки Печорской экспедиции. Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма

Опубликовано mochalov в Втр, 12/01/2010 - 21:44

Эту и последующие части пишу уже из Москвы.
Вернулись, отряхнулись, теперь можно и в ностальгию вдариться!

Ижма — село красивое и колоритное, но я его излазил вдоль и поперек года три назад. В этот раз мы здесь только жили, благо помимо старой советской центральной гостиницы (говорят, отремонтированной) появилась и новая, частная "Пелидз", что по-русски означает "Рябина". В гостиничке все хорошо, и даже кафе есть. В нем по вечерам собирается местная молодежь и отжигает до утра. Прелести такого соседства мы прочувствовали через несколько дней, на Рождество, когда на утро стены были в крови, на лестницах оторваны перила, администратор бледнела и старалась не смотреть нам в глаза... Но Бог с ними, мы спали без задних ног.

Все территории от Ижмы на север — края оленеводческие, и одна из основных наших целей — застать рогатых на их стойбищах, в тундре. Это оказалось весьма проблематично: переговоры с населением, администраторами гостиниц, музейщиками ни к чему не приводили; все говорили, что стало где-то рядом, но где — никто не знает. Мы даже смогли организовать разговор с бригадиром оленеводов, но тот сказал, что к приему гостей не готов и наотрез отказался продолжать диалоги о животных. Как мы потом поняли, это проявление языческо-суеверных поверий — они попросту боятся сглаза, и если их не застать на пастбище "совершенно случайно", сами они никогда на глаза не покажутся.

Пока распутывали этот ребус, заехали в Сизябск, где удивительная женщина Зинаида Павловна несколько лет назад организовала туристический чум с ручным оленем. Да, это не то, что хотелось, но где еще в наше время можно потрепать за ухо олешку, скушать его ляжку и посидеть на шкурах его сородичей?

Нашему игровому настрою здесь рада каждая собака!

А в чуме мы были накормлены бульоном из оленины с шаньгами и отдельно поданным вареным мясом.

У подножия чума раскинулся древний град Сизябск.

Местные жители автомобилям предпочитают более приспособленные под "направления" средства транспорта — снегоходы и лошадей.

Упряжек же снует туда-сюда масса — возят скарб, бидоны с водой, собак...

Поначалу обилию гужевого транспорта дивишься, а потом привыкаешь. Но расслабляться не стоит, могут и затоптать — здесь много лошадей в вольном выпасе, которые любят пошалить голопом меж сараев.

Вообще, Сизябск и окрестности — весьма милое местечко, здесь люди по улицам в морозы и по сей день ходят в оленеводческих малицах, а на ногах носят пимы, сшитые на сизябской маленькой фабрике.

Но и мы не лыком шиты! Сергей мог на равных обсуждать ньюансы мастерства; мне же оставалось лишь щелкать затвором...

Бырышни, пока мужики заняты, отправились обменивать припасенные ассигнации на шкурки оленьи. Однако всевидящее око застало их врасплох.

Оно же, то самое многолинзовое мультизумовое око, заприметило и удивительный по своему техническому великолепию узел, крепящий несущую балку здания.

Посмотрите — как на Ижме выполнены детские санки, прикольные такие фанерные ящички-полугробики.

Обратите внимание на эту чудную бабушку в малице.

Как нам рассказали в краеведческом музее Ижмы, оленеводы привыкли к сыроедению, т.е. потребляют сырое мясо, рыбу, кровь оленей. Подтверждение этому мы слышали и от старожилов. Нам рассказывали, что в военные годы, когда на севере был страшный голод, детей отпаивали свежей кровью. Но даже после всех этих историй мы со скепсисом отнеслись к словам девушки-гида будто у оленеводов и клыки весьма характерные, хищные. Но посмотрите на этот портрет...

Затем мы пошли в гости к бабушке и дедушке Тони, дочери Зинаиды Павловны. Я бывал у них года три назад, и не мог не проведать и в этот раз. Милые, жизнерадостные старики, дай Бог им здоровья, посмотрите на них — обоим под 80!

Вот они с нашими дамами, ряженными в национальные одежды коми.

Ну, скажите — XXI веком пахнет?

Вот и я говорю — не пахнет!

Вечером мы отправились в Усть-Цильму, русское село, где коми не живут. И почувствовали разницу сразу. Здесь тоже есть гостиницы, и тоже две. Только одна закрыта на праздничные дни с 31 декабря по 11 января, а вторая — скорее гостевая комната при спорткомплексе, чем гостиница. Но хоть крыша над головой, и то хорошо. И в настольный теннис поиграть можно...

Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

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