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Записки Печорской экспедиции. Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Опубликовано mochalov в Ср, 13/01/2010 - 16:01
В любой экспедиции должно быть что-то первооткрывательское.
На сегодняшний день известен основной зимник с "материка" на Нарьян-Мар, идущий через Усинск. Если начать изучать дорожную сеть этого региона, встречается упоминание, что пару раз некие неопознанные личности прорывались в Нарьян-Мар напрямую из Усть-Цильмы, прямо вдоль Печоры. Однако никаких достоверных источников на сей счет нет. Местные также лишь разводят руками и озвучивают домыслы.
Даже встреченный нами дорожный знак — и тот не может определиться — есть ли дорога на Нарьян-Мар и сколько до него ехать. Вот мы и решили двинуться на север с целью выяснения истины.
По пути нам попался живописный мотоцикл, воткнутый в сугроб. Судя по закопченности цилиндров, заводят его паяльной лампой
После этого знака дорога стала заметно хуже, зимник очень неровный, что сразу сказалось на скорости передвижения.
В нашем же направлении стремились косяки рыбацких лодок.
Мы же все надеялись увидеть стада оленей, вынюхивали следы и смотрели во все глаза...
В Окунево расположен забойный пункт, и стада здесь бывают часто. Но нам не повезло, мы застали лишь многочисленные нарты и удивленного нашим появлением кочегара.
Дальше на север пересекали Печору, даже какое-то время ехали по острову через деревню Крестовка. На одной из ледовых переправ пообщались с трактористом, чистившим зимник. Он сетовал на ненадежность техники, и сказал, что дальше на север не пойдет, так как на одной из переправ дорожники не обозначили ограничения веса транспортного средства, а топить трактор ему не сильно хочется.
Чем сильнее забираешься на север, тем меньше встречаешь солнца. Рассвет сразу переходит в закат, а небесное светило чуть заметно над елками.
Иногда казалось, что мы уже забрались в места совсем не жилые, но подобные знаки посреди корявого зимника возвращали с неба на землю.
Так, мало по малу, мы и пересекли Полярный Круг. Обратите внимание, на GPS буковки не хватает, студентам до фонаря — что это за круг такой, полярный.
Пересечение заветного рубежа отметили символическим застольем.
Зимник уперся в крайнее печорское село Леждуг. GPS померил расстояние по прямой до Нарьян-Мара, до него осталось 77 км. По словам местных, не чистится всего 40 км дороги, и народ ездит в город на "Буранах". Мы проверили — буранный след наши машины практически не держат, смогли углубиться от дороги метров на 200. При этом, когда иные регионы засыпало снегом, здесь, в заполярье, глубина покрова не больше 30 см, и Wrangler свободно идет по целине!
Было громадное искушение рискнуть и пойти на Нарьян-Мар. Я в Леждуге опросил население на предмет наличия эвакуаторов — ГТС или тракторов, но ответ был отрицательный: вся колесная и гусеничная техника законсервирована до весны, и оживлять они ее ни за какие коврижки не собираются. А значит, если мы где-то встрянем, помощи ждать неоткуда. На том и развернулись.
Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва
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