Записки Печорской экспедиции. Ухта – Ижма

Опубликовано mochalov в Пнд, 04/01/2010 - 00:38

Ухта. Ранний выезд традиционно не удался, отчалили от гостиницы лишь в начале десятого утра. Мороз держится стабильно на уровне около -20º. Впереди последний перегон до заветного «медвежьего угла», сегодня мы должны достигнуть села Ижма.

Выезжаем по дороге на Вуктыл, она ровна и хороша, но радуемся недолго. Не доезжая Верхнего Одеса уходим на грунтовую лесную дорогу и плетемся на скорости 15-30 км/ч по удивительно изуродованному «направлению». И ведь мы едем здесь зимой, а что здесь творится летом… Приходилось видеть фотографии с этого злосчастного участка — жесть! Сейчас же народ умудряется прорываться даже на легковушках, правда, некоторые из них, очевидно, не совсем адекватны. Так, нам попался на пути потрепанный жизнью и хозяином «Жигуленок» с оторванной шаровой опорой.

Мало того, что веселая семейка, говорящая меж собой на языке коми, рискнула куда-то рвануть зимой на столь ушатанной машине, так они еще и запчастей с собой взяли с гулькин хвост. Рычаг подвески с шаровой у них с собой, к счастью, все-таки был.

Не было лишь нормального инструмента, теплой одежды, того, что можно постелить на землю во время ремонта, и… бензина! А чудо-отвертка с ручкой из березового полена как вам, нравится? С таким "снаряжением" пускаться в путешествие по 120-километровому "зимнику" в 22 градуса мороза — очередная русская рулетка.

Из-за отсутствия запаса топлива мотор был заглушен. Греться им попросту негде. И если укутанные тетки были бодряком, то один из парней, одетый в джинсы и легкую куртку, трясся как припадочный, но наотрез отказывался сесть погреться к нам в машину — типа он мужик железный и ему не холодно! И вообще, они отказывались почти от всего, пришлось их почти насильно заправить и напоить горячим чаем. В итоге, совместными усилиями их почтенный ВАЗ обрел парную копытность и способность к передвижению. Удивляет, насколько местное население зачастую халатно относится к собственной безопасности. Нам бесчисленное количество раз приходилось в разных уголках планеты спасать аборигенов в их родной стихии от холода, жары, воды и засухи… Видимо, ощущение знания местности расслабляет до отрыва от реальности.

При разъезде со встречной машиной Сергея на Ford Ranger затянуло в придорожный сугроб — пришлось разматывать лебедку.

И этот конфуз обернулся большой удачей. Сперва около нас остановился дядечка, направляющийся в село Ласта, близ Ижмы; оказывается, у него там база отдыха. А следом за ним около нас тормознул Mitsubishi L200, оттуда радостно вышел высокий, статный, бородатый мужчина, который, поняв, что мы путешественники, принялся со всеми знакомиться и рассказывать множество любопытных историй и фактов из истории края. Оказалось, он музыкант, едет в Усть-Цильму, где у его коллектива 8 января концерт… Как, оказывается, полезно застревать! Договорились встретиться с ним через день-два в Усть-Цильме.

В Ижму въехали довольно рано, часов в шесть вечера, и уж было приготовились откупоривать консервы — ведь во время моего последнего посещения этого села несколько лет назад общепитом здесь и не пахло. Однако оказалось, что открылась еще одна гостиница, где есть свое кафе! Ни секунды не раздумывая, пустили корни в гостевом доме «Пелидз» (что в переводе означает Рябина) и протестировали предлагаемый сервис. Не могу сказать, что супер, но самое главное — отношение. С этим вопросом на Ижме все в порядке: народ удивительно светлый, открытый, общительный, готовый помочь советом, знакомствами, да чем угодно. Если ты гость — достаточно обрисовать проблему тому же администратору в гостинице, и, будьте уверены, без всяких отговорок будут найдены ответы на все поставленные вопросы, найдены искомые люди и принесено то, не знаю что. Заповедный край! А солнца так и нет…

Записки Печорской экспедиции
Москва – Воровино. Авария
Москва – Великий Устюг – Вогваздино
Вогваздино – Ухта
Ухта – Ижма
Ижма – Сизябск – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Замежная – Усть-Цильма
Усть-Цильма – Леждуг – Харьяга
Харьяга – Ижма – Москва

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