Якутия! "Москва – Тикси". Часть 2
Часть 2. Красавец Батагай
Начнем с обзорной экскурсии по городу. Общее впечатление — разруха. И это не от нищеты или безденежья, это особенность северного мировоззрения. Большая часть населения — люди не местные, приехавшие на заработки со всех концов России. Каждый приезжает сюда на год, и из года в год считает, что вот сейчас — последний год. Следовательно, обустраивать быт мало кто пытается. Так и проживают всю жизнь в бараках и лачугах в окружении покошенных заборов и серого снега... А люди здесь чудесные, и биографии у них — по каждому можно книгу писать и фильмы снимать.
Жесть как она есть или "апокалипсис сегодня"...
Куча хлама в каждой подворотне, металлолом в ассортименте, все серое и тоскливое... Самое яркое событие за время нашего присутствия в городе — внеплановый "день взятия Бастилии".
В этом замечательном здании располагалась местная ментовка. То ли мы вспышками пыхали неосторожно, то ли коротнуло где, но на следующий день этого здания не стало, а в поселке наступил народный праздник. Гуляний, правда, по этому поводу не было — народ суровый, сдержанный.
Так куча сотрудников МВД стала бомжами. Жалости и сострадания в глазах жителей я не заметил.
Пепелище дымилось не меньше суток. Горели архивы и личные дела, а нам, людям с фотокамерами, добавилось замечательных картинок. Правда, обездоленные менты были против творческих порывов и отгоняли фотохудожников крепким словом, утверждая, что нельзя без письменного разрешения фотографировать колючую проволоку.
Ну, разве не красота? Ничего милиционеры не понимают в прекрасном, а народу — нравится!
Огонь в этих краях — с любой точки зрения хорошо, ведь при таких морозах лишь бы согреться, и жгут обычно самое дешевое и ненужное, мусор всякий, например...
А потому батагайцы в свободное время мечтают о теплых краях.
И поют об этих райских местах душевные песни, но все они заканчиваются одним — Якутия тянет назад. Не нужен нам берег турецкий... Шутки шутками, а очень трогательно и душевно, в наше время в центральной России такое редко встретишь.
Вы только посмотрите — какая положительная энергетика во взглядах этих людей!
Как же приятно сломаться в правильном месте в окружении прекрасных людей! Четыре дня кукования в Батагае в ожидании подушек подвески пролетели в теплой дружеской обстановке как миг. Но все хорошее когда-нибудь кончается и... начинается новое хорошее!
На этом замечательном самолетике к нам прибыли вожделенные резинотехнические изделия, к тому моменту требуемые и вишневому автомобилю, беспомощно распластавшемуся на брюхе по гаражу. Пневматика исправно трудилась лишь на нашем, голубом Mercedes, но, очевидно, та же участь ждала и его.
Андрей Леонтьев был несказанно рад держать в руках заветные детали, ведь без них продолжение экспедиции было под угрозой.
Пройдя контроль с пристрастием, подушки были признаны полностью кондиционными, и установлены на сломанный автомобиль.
Закупив все самое необходимое в местном магазине, мы тронулись в путь на север.
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