Якутия! "Москва – Тикси". Часть 3

Опубликовано mochalov в Чт, 26/03/2009 - 19:20

Часть 3. Брошенные города

На север от Батагая начинается... Сталинград. Брошенные города и поселки, где еще недавно кипела жизнь. Первая "ласточка" — Стрелка, поселок, построенный в месте, где предполагалось сооружение Адычанской ГЭС. Электростанцию так и не построили, поселок бросили, жизнь затухла примерно в 91-92 году.

Зрелище тоскливое. Снимать не хотелось, очень грустно. Есть ли еще в мире страна, где так бездарно выбрасываются бюджеты в тундру, а богатейшая по своим запасам земля оказывается нерентабельной?

Поселок Сайды. Бабка-учетчица запротоколировала наш проезд в северном направлении, а мужик возит по селу грузы на таких вот санях, сделанных из двух кроватных спинок. Пока мы шлялись по поселку, трое человек в разных направлениях мимо нас пронесли телевизоры. Мы даже подумали, что это местная мода — ходить по улице с телевизором, за неимением мобильников. GSM тут отсутствует напрочь. Кстати, Сайды — первое чисто якутское село на нашем пути, русского населения здесь нет.

Молодые якутяночки, кто в унтах, кто на коньках.

Парнишка в позе цапли простоял с полчаса. Чем закончилось великое стояние — не скажу, уехали...

На Буранах здесь возят все — от людей до бочек с топливом.

В Сайдах даже водосточные трубы выполнены по обходным технологиям из распространенных подручных материалов.

На льду реки — сгоревший КАМАЗ. Когда мы подъехали, он еще дымился.

Поселок Северный. Брошенный. Золотодобыча оказалась нерентабельной. Оставшиеся здесь 15 человек выживают вывозом на "большую землю" того, что плохо лежит и хоть что-то стоит. Думаю, фотографии не требуют комментариев. Это катастрофа.

Об истории гибели поселка Северный можно почитать здесь.

Всматриваясь в старые вывески, трудно поверить, что когда-то здесь кипела жизнь...

После Северного жизни уже почти нет, дорога петляет меж брошенных карьеров, через грунтовый аэропорт. Появились мощные переметы, кругом голая тундра с чахлой растительностью. С этого момента лопаты далеко не убирали.

Тяжело не только нам, грузовики тоже едут "на лопате", но откопать такого монстра куда труднее.

Мужик от помощи отказался, но очень просил показать непременно по 1 каналу как они здесь живут, по каким дорогам ездят; напомнить там, в Москве, что они вообще есть.

Прости, мужик, но даже тремя "Мерсами" нам тебя не дернуть.

Однако далеко мы не ушли, и также копали, копали, копали...

А кругом — тундра... Картина захватывающая.

Вечерело... Красивейший закат окутал суровую северную природу. Машины бодро шелестели по льду реки в сторону последнего, самого северного поселка Хайыр.

Там нас не ждали, но приютили и разместили на постой в семьях, в частных домах. Мы с Женей Константиновым гостили в семье оленевода, правда, хозяин был на пастбище, а дома — лишь жена и выводок детей. Ужинали в местной школе. Нас подчивали как дорогих гостей: и олениной, и строганиной... Эх! Север!

Конец третьей серии

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