Якутия! "Москва – Тикси". Часть 4
Часть 4. Арктика
Утро добрым не бывает. Наш ML застрял прямо у дома, где мы ночевали. Фитнес обеспечен. По случаю нашего приезда была обещана самодеятельность, а нас просили рассказать детям в двух словах о нас, о нашей миссии, о жизни вне Хайыра.
Вся детвора поселка роилась около нас — такие гуманоиды здесь проезжают впервые, а машину марки Mercedes здесь в жизни не видывали, несмотря на надпись на спине одного из ребят.
В местной школе прекрасная девушка исполнила для нас очень грациозный и эмоциональный танец.
Андрей Леонтьев провел детям краткую политинформацию. Преподаватели школы рассказали о жизни поселка. В их речах сквозила такая тоска и безысходность — несомненно, подростающее поколение буквально пропитано ощущуением, что надо валить из этого Богом забытого края... Кстати, о Боге. Основная религия в Хайыре — Свидетели Иеговы.
Впервые встречаю памятную стеллу с профилем Сталина.
Это не якутский деревянный Стоунхендж, это сваи так и не построенного здания.
Отчетливо видно как деревянный дом промерзает по швам. В средней полосе такого не встретишь.
По бокам здания устроены ледники. Питьевую воду здесь берут не из колодцев, а выпиливая льдины из реки. Взял льдышку, растопил — вот тебе и чистейшая вода.
Впереди нас ждал самый сложный участок. Севернее Хайыра дороги не существует, но люди ездят. Сперва — по льду реки, затем — "впадают" в Северный Ледовитый океан и далее держат курс на Тикси по морю Лаптевых. За долгую якутскую зиму проходит с десяток караванов. Тема с цепями не удалась — они оказались чуть меньше по размеру, а в Москве, естественно, никто не проверил... Сами дураки.
Мы знали, что в нашем направлении идет караван КРАЗов–"лапотников", и сознательно никуда не спешили, выжидая их появления на горизонте. Дождались как раз в Хайыре. Тундра их явно потрепала, достаточно посчитать количество колес на прицепе... Такой монстр потребляет под 200 литров на "сотню", заправок нет, и топливо они вынуждены везти с собой. В термобудках путешествуют продукты, рефрежератор работает на нагрев, чтобы провиант не померз. Теперь понятно, почему кило картошки здесь стоит под двести рублей.
Парни по-отечески поглумились над нами, и сказали, что ждать нас не станут, ибо шансов у нас нет, особенно, когда дорога выйдет на море.
Мы, конечно же, сделали вид, что прислушались к мнению Больших Братьев, но решили биться до последней... подушки, коих оставалось еще две.
Наш караван бодро, 20-40 км/ч, "зашагал" в сторону заветного города Тикси.
Парни из КРАЗов традиционно гуляют по улице в футболках. -40 — для них не мороз.
Наши три блохи на фоне кораблей Арктики выглядели как угодно: мило, гламурно, попсово, но уж точно не серьезно. На переднем плане — лиственница, ей лет не счесть, но больше она не вырастет: климат крайне суров.
Очередная лопнувшая подушка, на этот раз уже на нашем автомобиле, лишила нас проводников. Караван ушел, а мы остались. Подушка пневмоподвески меняется опытным человеком за час, а мы вообще профи — уже четыре поменяли.
Подушка на морозе ниже -30 теряет эластичность, обмерзает, а лед, скапливающийся в пыльнике, довершает черное дело — пневмоэлемент умирает. Вызывает уважение, как внимательно представительство Mercedes отнеслось к нашему пробегу и как оперативно высылало необходимые детали в Якутию. Специалисты из Штутгарта лично общались с Леонтьевым, просили выслать им умершие детали и обещали внести изменения в конструкцию автомобиля... Вот это подход, отечественному автопрому и не снилось!
До Тикси оставалась одна подушка. Наш караван продолжил путь по свежему следу "лапотников".
Чем ближе к океану, тем шире русло реки.
И вот мы "впали" в океан... На закате Арктика отличается от Африки лишь тем, что температура на термометре в машине не +38, а -38. Просторы поражают воображение после многодневного пути среди сопок. Реально жутко, энергетика фантастическая.
Работая над этим кадром, я лежал на льду минут десять и чувствовал как эта толща подо мной дышит, живет, трещит, ухает. Ощущение, когда лежишь в снегу посреди поля с озимыми в Подмосковье даже в подметки не годится этой жути.
До противоположного берега залива мы шли по льду моря Лаптевых всю ночь, маневрируя среди торосов, коля льдины ломом и откидывая со своего пути, подсаживаясь на переметах и и толкая внедорожники. Тросы T-MAX работали, не покладая шаклов. К чему я это говорю? 20-метровая 6-тонная стропа — гениальная вещь, очень мягко и бережно тянется. Хочу такую!
Впервые в жизни я в Арктике, впервые в жизни видел полноценное северное сияние, правда, недоступное моей фототехнике, и не очень яркое, впервые по морю Лаптевых едет Mercedes ML. Столько всего выдающегося, эмоционального, грандиозного. Останавливаешься среди океана, выключаешь свет фар; над тобой — купол звездного неба, сияние, 360 градусов пустоты. Ты один, с друзьями. Ради этого чувства стоило ехать!
Ближе к утру мы подъехали практически вплотную к противоположному берегу, но нас от него отгородила парящая трещина. Следы КРАЗов ушли вдоль препятствия. Мы последовали их примеру, но вскоре поняли, что эту красоту нельзя проезжать ночью, надо поспать, а утром поснимать. Решено — встаем на ночлег, в машинах, на краю трещины...
Утро не бывает добрым... Все чего-то фотографируют, а я лишь щурюсь на солнце и пытаюсь понять, где я. Поснимать так и не удалось, сон оказался слаще и востребованнее, чем творческий экстаз. Однако через час картина мира за окном не изменилась: все тот же океан, те же торосы, та же простая, даже аскетичная северная красота.
Маневрируя среди торосов, несложно угодить в трещину...
...и без помощи ближнего выбираться будешь долго.
"Земля!!! Земля!!!" — закричали мореплаватели, увидев сквозь туман очертания высокого берега.
Анвар — наверное, самый заполярный узбек на Руси.
В 40 км от цели меняем последнюю подушку на нашем Mercedes. Теперь до Тикси — ноль подушек.
А вот и вожделенный город. Сквозь туман и пургу проявились очертания портовых кранов морских ворот Якутии.
Эпохальная встреча — мы и наши тиксинские друзья на льду Северного Ледовитого океана.
Судя по прицепам, 25-тонные КРАЗы тоже успешно прибыли в порт приписки.
Тикси производит очень печальное впечатление. Разруха, брошенные дома, на улицах наледи, без внедорожника по городу не проехать. Лицезреть эти "красоты" мне предстояло лишь пару часов — самолет унес вашего непокорного слугу в Якутск, затем еще более серебристый аэроплан доставил в Москву. Все произошло так быстро, что даже не верилось, что еще вчера я спал на льду моря Лаптевых. Может — приснилось?
На сегодняшний день оставшиеся в составе экспедиции ребята уже миновали Якутск и направляются в Москву по федеральным трассам. Все живы, все здоровы, всем спасибо за долготерпение.
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There was a ragged shout of the company in response.
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There was a swelling chorus in answer.
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There was a touch of scandal in the michael kors outlet air.
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“All speak up, men,” chimed in a feminine voice.
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“Hold, hold,” said Alfred Brangwen. “Don’t run us off our legs.”
And in dead silence the glasses were filled. The bride pandora uk and bridegroom, two children, sat with intent, shining faces at the head of the table, abstracted.
“There’s no marriage in heaven,” went on Tom Brangwen; “but on earth there is marriage.”
“That’s the difference between ’em,” said Alfred Brangwen, mocking.
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“Praising the Lord,” repeated Tom.
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“That I can’t tell. How do I know as there is anybody left over at the Judgment Day? Let that be. What I say is, that when a man’s soul and a woman’s soul unites together — that makes an Angel ——”
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