Якутия! "Москва – Тикси". Часть 4

Опубликовано mochalov в Пнд, 30/03/2009 - 16:36

Часть 4. Арктика

Утро добрым не бывает. Наш ML застрял прямо у дома, где мы ночевали. Фитнес обеспечен. По случаю нашего приезда была обещана самодеятельность, а нас просили рассказать детям в двух словах о нас, о нашей миссии, о жизни вне Хайыра.

Вся детвора поселка роилась около нас — такие гуманоиды здесь проезжают впервые, а машину марки Mercedes здесь в жизни не видывали, несмотря на надпись на спине одного из ребят.

В местной школе прекрасная девушка исполнила для нас очень грациозный и эмоциональный танец.

Андрей Леонтьев провел детям краткую политинформацию. Преподаватели школы рассказали о жизни поселка. В их речах сквозила такая тоска и безысходность — несомненно, подростающее поколение буквально пропитано ощущуением, что надо валить из этого Богом забытого края... Кстати, о Боге. Основная религия в Хайыре — Свидетели Иеговы.

Впервые встречаю памятную стеллу с профилем Сталина.

Это не якутский деревянный Стоунхендж, это сваи так и не построенного здания.

Отчетливо видно как деревянный дом промерзает по швам. В средней полосе такого не встретишь.

По бокам здания устроены ледники. Питьевую воду здесь берут не из колодцев, а выпиливая льдины из реки. Взял льдышку, растопил — вот тебе и чистейшая вода.

Впереди нас ждал самый сложный участок. Севернее Хайыра дороги не существует, но люди ездят. Сперва — по льду реки, затем — "впадают" в Северный Ледовитый океан и далее держат курс на Тикси по морю Лаптевых. За долгую якутскую зиму проходит с десяток караванов. Тема с цепями не удалась — они оказались чуть меньше по размеру, а в Москве, естественно, никто не проверил... Сами дураки.

Мы знали, что в нашем направлении идет караван КРАЗов–"лапотников", и сознательно никуда не спешили, выжидая их появления на горизонте. Дождались как раз в Хайыре. Тундра их явно потрепала, достаточно посчитать количество колес на прицепе... Такой монстр потребляет под 200 литров на "сотню", заправок нет, и топливо они вынуждены везти с собой. В термобудках путешествуют продукты, рефрежератор работает на нагрев, чтобы провиант не померз. Теперь понятно, почему кило картошки здесь стоит под двести рублей.

Парни по-отечески поглумились над нами, и сказали, что ждать нас не станут, ибо шансов у нас нет, особенно, когда дорога выйдет на море.

Мы, конечно же, сделали вид, что прислушались к мнению Больших Братьев, но решили биться до последней... подушки, коих оставалось еще две.

Наш караван бодро, 20-40 км/ч, "зашагал" в сторону заветного города Тикси.

Парни из КРАЗов традиционно гуляют по улице в футболках. -40 — для них не мороз.

Наши три блохи на фоне кораблей Арктики выглядели как угодно: мило, гламурно, попсово, но уж точно не серьезно. На переднем плане — лиственница, ей лет не счесть, но больше она не вырастет: климат крайне суров.

Очередная лопнувшая подушка, на этот раз уже на нашем автомобиле, лишила нас проводников. Караван ушел, а мы остались. Подушка пневмоподвески меняется опытным человеком за час, а мы вообще профи — уже четыре поменяли.

Подушка на морозе ниже -30 теряет эластичность, обмерзает, а лед, скапливающийся в пыльнике, довершает черное дело — пневмоэлемент умирает. Вызывает уважение, как внимательно представительство Mercedes отнеслось к нашему пробегу и как оперативно высылало необходимые детали в Якутию. Специалисты из Штутгарта лично общались с Леонтьевым, просили выслать им умершие детали и обещали внести изменения в конструкцию автомобиля... Вот это подход, отечественному автопрому и не снилось!

До Тикси оставалась одна подушка. Наш караван продолжил путь по свежему следу "лапотников".

Чем ближе к океану, тем шире русло реки.

И вот мы "впали" в океан... На закате Арктика отличается от Африки лишь тем, что температура на термометре в машине не +38, а -38. Просторы поражают воображение после многодневного пути среди сопок. Реально жутко, энергетика фантастическая.

Работая над этим кадром, я лежал на льду минут десять и чувствовал как эта толща подо мной дышит, живет, трещит, ухает. Ощущение, когда лежишь в снегу посреди поля с озимыми в Подмосковье даже в подметки не годится этой жути.

До противоположного берега залива мы шли по льду моря Лаптевых всю ночь, маневрируя среди торосов, коля льдины ломом и откидывая со своего пути, подсаживаясь на переметах и и толкая внедорожники. Тросы T-MAX работали, не покладая шаклов. К чему я это говорю? 20-метровая 6-тонная стропа — гениальная вещь, очень мягко и бережно тянется. Хочу такую!

Впервые в жизни я в Арктике, впервые в жизни видел полноценное северное сияние, правда, недоступное моей фототехнике, и не очень яркое, впервые по морю Лаптевых едет Mercedes ML. Столько всего выдающегося, эмоционального, грандиозного. Останавливаешься среди океана, выключаешь свет фар; над тобой — купол звездного неба, сияние, 360 градусов пустоты. Ты один, с друзьями. Ради этого чувства стоило ехать!

Ближе к утру мы подъехали практически вплотную к противоположному берегу, но нас от него отгородила парящая трещина. Следы КРАЗов ушли вдоль препятствия. Мы последовали их примеру, но вскоре поняли, что эту красоту нельзя проезжать ночью, надо поспать, а утром поснимать. Решено — встаем на ночлег, в машинах, на краю трещины...

Утро не бывает добрым... Все чего-то фотографируют, а я лишь щурюсь на солнце и пытаюсь понять, где я. Поснимать так и не удалось, сон оказался слаще и востребованнее, чем творческий экстаз. Однако через час картина мира за окном не изменилась: все тот же океан, те же торосы, та же простая, даже аскетичная северная красота.

Маневрируя среди торосов, несложно угодить в трещину...

...и без помощи ближнего выбираться будешь долго.

"Земля!!! Земля!!!" — закричали мореплаватели, увидев сквозь туман очертания высокого берега.

Анвар — наверное, самый заполярный узбек на Руси.

В 40 км от цели меняем последнюю подушку на нашем Mercedes. Теперь до Тикси — ноль подушек.

А вот и вожделенный город. Сквозь туман и пургу проявились очертания портовых кранов морских ворот Якутии.

Эпохальная встреча — мы и наши тиксинские друзья на льду Северного Ледовитого океана.

Судя по прицепам, 25-тонные КРАЗы тоже успешно прибыли в порт приписки.

Тикси производит очень печальное впечатление. Разруха, брошенные дома, на улицах наледи, без внедорожника по городу не проехать. Лицезреть эти "красоты" мне предстояло лишь пару часов — самолет унес вашего непокорного слугу в Якутск, затем еще более серебристый аэроплан доставил в Москву. Все произошло так быстро, что даже не верилось, что еще вчера я спал на льду моря Лаптевых. Может — приснилось?

На сегодняшний день оставшиеся в составе экспедиции ребята уже миновали Якутск и направляются в Москву по федеральным трассам. Все живы, все здоровы, всем спасибо за долготерпение.

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That looked more like it.

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There was a ragged shout of the company in response.

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There was a swelling chorus in answer.

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“All speak up, men,” chimed in a feminine voice.

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“Hold, hold,” said Alfred Brangwen. “Don’t run us off our legs.”

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“There’s no marriage in heaven,” went on Tom Brangwen; “but on earth there is marriage.”

“That’s the difference between ’em,” said Alfred Brangwen, mocking.

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