Якутия! "Москва – Тикси". Часть 1

Опубликовано mochalov в Сб, 07/03/2009 - 09:50

Автопробег Москва – Тикси организован телеканалом "Авто Плюс". Три практически стандартных Mercedes ML320 CDI стартовали из Москвы 20 февраля, меня же ждал самый ударный участок маршрута: Якутск – Тополиное – Батагай – Сайды – Усть-Куйга – Тикси. Подробности приключения я расскажу чуть позже на страницах журнала "Автомобили", после чего полная версия отчета ляжет на этот сайт. Ну и, естественно, ожидается ряд передач на канале "Авто Плюс". А пока — подразню фотографиями...

Часть 1. Мечта художника

Экспедиция стартовала 20 февраля из Москвы, и низкий поклон тем, кто идет весь маршрут целиком, а не как я — только самый интересный участок от Якутска до Тикси.

Организатор экспедиции — телеканал "Авто Плюс", где будет показана серия передач о нашем приключении.

Вот такие корабли тундры стали нам друзьями на последующие дни. Легковых машин по зимникам не встретишь, ну разве что "Буханки" или по-местому "Таблетки" здесь выполняют роль легкой кавалерии.

С Колымского тракта наша экспедиция свернула на север. Зимник до Тополиного тянется по сопкам, петляя серпантинами, пересекая реки как по мостам, так и по льду. Дорога дикая, населенных пунктов нет, но трафик для севера немаленький.

Машинки бегут пока резво, потребляя в среднем около 12 литров дизельного топлива. С качеством ДТ проблем нет, здесь с этим никто не шутит — перемерзнуть посреди тайги или тундры смерти подобно. Нам повезло: все дни температура колебалась в диапазоне от -25 до -40 градусов мороза, а за пару дней до нас в этих суровых краях было ниже -50...

Закаты долгие, различными оттенками неба можно любоваться часами.

Этот перевал, украшенный скульптурой оленей, является воротами в дикую страну, живущую своими законами и традициями, куда более добрыми и честными, чем то, к чему мы привыкли в городах. Здесь люди каждый день совершают гражданские подвиги, совершают Поступки, сосуществуют с природой, способной как убить человека за пару десятков миниут, так и прокормить его, обеспечить всем необходимым...

Чем дальше на восток от Урала, тем более суеверны люди, почитают богов и духов, боятся чем-то им не угодить. На фото: фрагмент жертвенника на перевале. Каждый проезжающий мимо оставляет духам что-то нужное, полезное, с его точки зрения. Люди разные, и палитра очень контрастная.

Сразу после Тополиного зимник спустился на лед рек, и перед глазами предстали первые жертвы — китайский грузовик, завязший на скользком галечнике, пересекающем то тут, то там дорогу.

Наледи — одна из страшнейших ловушек на зимниках. Нам повезло, мы их встретили не много, жуть начнется лишь к концу марта и продолжится до середины апреля. Самое страшное — застрять посреди такого водного капкана. Машина быстро вмерзает, и выпиливать ее потом можно до весны. Кстати, при открытии и закрытии зимников каждый год тонут машины...

В опасных местах стоят знаки "Наледь" или "Пустоты". Дорожных служб при этом как таковых нет, большая часть зимника — дикая, проложена местным народом чтобы не умереть с голода, ведь основной подвоз продуктов с осени по весну идет по земле. Авиация слишком накладна, да и не в каждом поселке есть аэропорт. Килограмм груза, доставленного по воздуху, обходится в 60-70 рублей, следовательно, к цене пакета молока в Якутске нужно прибавить эту сумму, чтобы получить его стоимость, скажем, в Батагае... Речной путь — самый дешевый, работает только два-три месяца в году. Судоходных рек немного, а те, что есть — мелеют, и судоходство проблематично. К тому же, скоропротящиеся продукты на год вперед не завезешь...

Километровые знаки вморожены в лед реки. До Батагая — 648 км русел рек и кочек тундры.

После Тополиного заправок практически нет. Наш ответ Чемберлену — портативные топливные баки (www.flexico.ru). Чуда не вышло: один потек через 100 км, второй — через 300...

В процессе переливки из дырявого в алюминиевое было разлито по тундре и ворсовому полу машин несколько десятков литров бесценного топлива. Кстати, солярка здесь стоит 35-45 рублей за литр. На фото по часовой стрелке: Андрей Леонтьев, Валерий Оболенский и Владимир Коваль.

Топливный бак с остатками топлива был повешен на запасное колесо...

...а нам оставалось поприкалдываться над инцидентом и залить последнюю пустующую емкость в нашем автомобиле — кожаного Женю Константинова.

А потом нам повстречались оленеводы... Сказочное зрелище. Они были сильно перепуганы обилием фото и видеокамер, а хозяйственный Ивыныч (В. Коваль) тут же выменял кусок лосятины на ассигнации. Вопрос с ужином решен.

Оленеводы ушли также быстро, как и появились, мы для них — инопланетяне, и говорить с нами, "входить в контакт" совсем неинтересно, в быту это знание не пригодится.

Ночевали в машинах, в тундре. Утром мимо проходил караван грузовиков — остановились и завалили вопросами, собирательный смысл которых можно кратко выразить как "а нахрена?". Дальнобойщики проникались неподдельным уважением к нашему поступку, хотя и не понимали, что нами движет. Один из мужиков, видимо, был настолько растроган вниманием московских журналистов к этому углу вселенной, что хотел любой ценой нас хоть чем-то отблагодарить. Он долго шарил в машине, видимо, хотел что-то подарить, но, не найдя ничего полезного, достал ружье и вылез со словами: "ну, хоть постреляйте что ли!"...

А вез караван сено для оленей.

Чтобы стекла изнутри не обмерзали, их делают двойными. Этот "тюнинг" касается и лобового стекла.

Жизнь в этих краях практически остановилась в начале Перестройки...

Придорожное якутское пугало.

Вроде знак как знак. Нам как раз на Батагай. Только вот дорога более короткая и правильная идет совершенно в иную сторону.

За каждым поворотом — новый вид. Красота неописуемая, идем очень медленно — снимаем, снимаем, снимаем. Никогда в жизни не ездил по льду рек, и еще несколько лет назад в одной из внедорожных конференций расспрашивал народ о возможности такого вот передвижения. Теперь я точно знаю ответы на все вопросы.

Очень сложно удержаться от искушения поскользить по гладкому льду, припорошенному снегом. Свобода!

От чистого, прозрачного льда с серьезными людьми происходили сказочные метаморфозы.

Лед, как хрусталь — с пустотами. Река промерзла до льда.

Однако минуты радости и счастья сменяются монотонной ездой по камням и кочкарнику. Что Уралу автобан — для ML не самая простая дорога. 300 мм дорожного просвета позволяют пропускать под собой большие камни, но скорость на таких участках минимальна — рисковать нельзя, нужно добраться до Тикси живыми и здоровыми. Здесь же начались и проблемы — на одной из машин лопнула задняя левая подушка пневмоподвески, а через некоторое время и ее правая соседка также отправилась в мир иной. Последние 150 км до Батагая черный ML прошел отчаянно подпрыгивая на каждой кочке и вытрясая душу и позвонки из пассажиров. 8 часов мучений по тундре, с откидыванием камней перед машиной, внезапным покровительством бензовоза, страховавшим нас на трудных участках — и мы в Батагае. Простите, в Красавце Батагае...

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