Байкальский лед 2010. Бугульдейка – Бухта Заворотная. 310 км

Опубликовано mochalov в Пнд, 05/04/2010 - 12:05

Утреннее солнце осветило долину реки Бугульдейки. В загонах мирно дремали вяложующие лошади, а мы начинали свой второй ходовой день байкальской экспедиции. Правда, ради расширения кругозора немного изменили ледовые планы — отправились объезжать остров Ольхон не по морю, а по суше. А эти чудные ледовые самокаты своими образами кипятили непроснувшиеся мозги... Как это работает — мы так и не поняли, а спросить постеснялись.

Смысл ухода с моря на сушу был в двух весьма любопытных точках. Первая на нашем пути — священная гора Ехе-Ёрд, где в старину, из года в год, каждую весну проводились Ердынские игры. На игрище съезжались люди со всех концов Западной Бурятии. Иногда, говорят, приезжало до двух-трех тысяч человек, и вокруг горы Ёрд танцевали хороводные танцы на протяжении 6 суток днем и ночью. Для того, чтобы игрище состоялось, предъявлялось одно единственное условие — участников должно собраться столько, чтобы они, взявшись за руки, могли опоясать горку, замкнув вокруг нее хороводный круг. Для этого необходимо не менее семисот человек. По ряду легенд, в дни игрищ священную гору снизу доверху устилали шкурами белых ягнят, отчего она становилась белоснежной.

Изображения самой горы у меня нет, все фотографии сделаны с вершины. Окрестности "украшены" сценами и прочими декорациями потому, что в 2000 году праздник был возобновлен.

По рассказам, камни на гору Ерд сносились вручную со всей округи, и она на сегодняшний день представляет собой скорее курган. На вершине можно увидеть множество крупных камней, уложенных наподобие сейдов, на опорах. На одном из таких камней заметно углубление — жертвенная чаша.

Деревянные столбики, иногда перевязанные ленточками, встречаются в Бурятии повсеместно. Но это только для нас, "маскалей" внутриМКАДных, это столбики с ленточками, для бурятов же смысл куда более глубокий. Попробую пояснить:

Столбики. Местное название — сэргэ (коновязь). Означает, в первую очередь, что у земли есть хозяин. Сэргэ в виде столба ставился у каждой юрты («пока стоит сэргэ — семья жива»). Сэргэ сооружалось два раза в жизни человека — в связи со свадьбой и со смертью. Разрушать сэргэ нельзя, оно должно сгнить само. Сэргэ символизировал "древо жизни", "мировое дерево", объединяющее три мира. На столбе наносились три кольцевых канавки. Верхняя предназначалась для привязывания лошадей верховных небожителей, средняя — для лошадей обычных земных людей, нижняя — для лошадей представителей подземного мира.

Ленточки. Местное название — Хадак. Лоскутки материи, ленты, платки с молитвами привязывают в месте обитания эжина, человек обращается к нему с просьбой или загадывает желание. Считалось, что когда ветер колышет ленточку с написанными на них старомонгольским вертикальным письмом молитвами, тот, кто повесил ленту, посылает свои молитвы небесам, даже если он в это время занят другими делами.

Духи. Местное название — Эжины. Хозяева местностей, гор, долин, хребтов, рек и озер. Земля, согласно шаманистским представлениям, является срединным миром, одухотворенным как в целом, так и во всех его частях. Поэтому каждая местность, гора, река, озеро, дорога, скала имеет своего эжина.

Следующая наша цель, петроглифы, располагались на другой стороне реки Анга, но бетонный мост с размытыми въездами был не самым лучшим помощником для наших "пузотерок".

Оставалось штурмовать речку по разрушающемуся под натиском весны хрупкому льду.

Современному человеку живется очень хорошо и комфортно, повсюду стены, заборы и обои, рисуй на здоровье. Древним же было заметно тяжелее реализовать свои художественные замыслы — поди найди подходящуюю скалу! А потому, если и рисовали, то все-таки по-делу, чтобы потомкам о жизни своей рассказать, об охоте, об обычаях. Петроглифы везде примерно похожи, и на Байкале, и на Бесовом Носу в Карелии, и в азербайджанском Гобустане. А теперь представьте, что подумают наши потомки, если откопают из пепла веков железобетонный забор, огораживающий железнодорожные пути в районе Курской-Товарной... Туристов уж точно водить не станут!

А мимо вот таких вот святых мест и вовсе проезжать нельзя, нужно обязательно остановиться и побурханить. Некоторые особо спешащие путешественники не останавливаются, а приотрывают окошко и кидают монетку, но я уже набивал шишки на фривольном общении с духами, больше не хочу.

А уж если учесть рискованность нашего мероприятия, то и вовсе стоит минимализировать любые риски и заручиться поддержкой всех, от кого хоть что-то зависит, ведь даже МЧС умывает руки и строго настрого предупреждает таких авантюристов как мы, что лучше оставить шальные помыслы и сидеть покорно дома.

Объехав по суше остров Ольхон, съезжаем на лед. На такой лед не грех и съехать, уж больно красив!

И тут началось такое... Взрослые дядьки устроили "фигурное катание", царапая лед шипами в различных конфигурациях и направлениях.

...ну и как же не снять на киноленту эти самые катания, все должно быть запротоколировано в лучшем виде!

Кстати о шипах. На столь гладком льду даже на "гвоздях" держака нет вообще, машины почти не управляются. Справедливости ради, надо сказать, что ходить и вовсе невозможно, того и гляди чебурахнешься!

А впереди нас ждали новые и новые трещины. Некоторые из них выглядили как "заборы", в которых наши предшественники прокапывали себе проезды. Но даже видимая "наезженность" — не повод расслабляться, каждая трещина однозначно живая и опасная.

Масштабы и сила движений льда видны невооруженным взглядом. Красота нереальная, но... страшно!

А меж трещин кого только не встретишь — рыбаков, например, на видавших виды УАЗиках, которые не жалко утопить и не надо потом доставать.

Геометрическая проходимость у Q5, конечно, не фонтан, но в большенстве случаев мы спокойно пролезали, не упражняясь в колке льдов и раскидывании снегов.

Чем севернее мы забирались вдоль побережья, тем меньше по пути встречалось чудаков. Но все равно каждый день мы общались с лыжниками, конькобежцами, пешеходниками и велосипедистами. В мире есть множество мест, куда тянуться психи всех стран за просветлением, и Байкал в рейтинге "мест силы" занимает лидирующее положение. Аркаиму остается лишь завидывать!

Эта одинокая точка, движущаяся вдоль берега — велосипедист. У меня тоже за плечами богатый велоопыт, но я все равно не завидую этому гражданину, потому что на улице немного холодно, ниже двадцати градусов, нижний уровень зоны комфорта, когда уже и дышать не так-то просто, и щеки/руки/ноги/коленки начинает морозить. К тому же, еще и ветер дует не слабый, традиционно встречный, чтоб жизнь медом не казалась...

Вечереет... Одно из правил движения по льду Байкала гласит: ездить в темное время суток нельзя ни в коем случае. И с каждой минутой волнение Александра заметно все более и более отчетливно, ночевать в машинах на льду — перспектива романтичная, но не самая комфортная, тем более до жилья осталось не более двадцати километров. Но спешка — еще большее зло, тем более на пути все чаще стали встречаться трещины и торосы, а скорость передвижения стала неумолимо падать... Проходы сквозь препятствия, исследование толщины льда — все делается рыбацкой пешней, незаменимым орудием северного автомобильного путешественника.

После приготовления прохода сквозь торос машины по очереди перепрыгивают через трещину. Скорость Александр определяет на глазок, где 60 км/ч, а где и 80...

Иногда трещина не выглядит угрожающе, и кажется, что перепрыгнуть ее — пара пустяков. Но Александр интуитивно чувствует опасность, и проверяет на сколько надежен лед вокруг. На поверку это может оказаться не метровый массив льда, а тоненькая корочка, не толще стекла, припорошенная снегом. Реальная же трещина же может оказаться шириной не 20 см, а 2 метра...

Трещина оказалась опасная, лед тонкий, хотя на вид — ерунда. На фото отчетливо видно шов-спайку, это реальная граница трещины. Итого, реальная ширина трещины — метров шесть-семь! "Патруль", как наиболее тяжелый, прыгает на скорости более 80 км/ч, и после тщетно пытается остановиться на протяжении нескольких сотен метров. Страшно, но зрелищно!

Каждая последующая машина идет своим следом, со смещением, так как предшественник колет лед. Очень интересно за этим процессом наблюдать со стороны: слышно как колеса бьются о кромку льда, как трещит тонкая корочка, как работают шипы в попытках погасить разгон после удачного прыжка...

Осталось буквально несколько километров до бухты Заворотной, покупаем у рыбаков свежевыловленного омуля, будем жарить в зимовье на сон грядущий. Ну а мне эту ночь предстояло провести прямо на льду Байкала, в ледяном домике, выстроенном в старой трещине всего за час из пары льдин... Но это отдельная история.

Продолжение...

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